ARCTIC CRUISE:  EAST GREENLAND

ICEBREAKER: Professor Multanovski - Professor Molchanov - Grigoriy Mikheev

CRUISKEFLEGK - Keflavik to Keflavik

From Keflavik we sail north to an area where hundreds of Humpback Whales sometimes gather to feed. If sea ice conditions are light we will make for Scoresby Sund Fjord, the largest and arguably most spectacular fjord in the world. Its huge glaciers calve glistening icebergs and are set to a backdrop of spectacular mountains and tundra, at this time of year tinged in warm autumn colours. We aim to visit the friendly Greenlandic hunting community of Itoqqortoormiit, where people still depend on hunting bears and seals for their livelihood.

Heading south, we reach Nansen Fjord, often choked with beautifully sculpted icebergs and ringed by high mountains, among them Gunnbjørn Fjeld, the highest in Greenland. Nearby Kangerlussuaq Fjord is often a good location for encounters with Narwhals and Polar Bears - as well as Greenlanders on hunting expeditions. If sea ice conditions are heavy, we cannot reach Scoresby Sund Fjord, so sail instead to Ammassalik where the municipality covers an area five times the size of Denmark, though has a population of less than 5000. At Køge Bugt, where the Greenland Ice Cap reaches the sea, large tabular icebergs drift around and are an impressive sight. We also circumnavigate the spectacular and beautiful Skjoldungen Island and explore the valley of Marie Dal, which is often carpeted with wild berries at this time of year. With luck we may witness breathtaking displays of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), that can be especially lively in this area in September.

Greenland - The island’s richest plant growth is found in the sub-arctic belt in the southwest. Here birch scrub is found and potatoes, beet and carrots can be grown. In the low-arctic area tall willow scrub grows, while in the high-arctic only low-lying Arctic Willow can survive, though there are also expanses of moorland with ponds and marshes. Around 500 different species of plants and about 5 species of orchid have been identified to date. The national flower is Rose Bay Willow Herb, considered a weed in many European countries, but prized in Greenland where it is called ‘young girl’ in Greenlandic. Another interesting local name is that for flowering Cotton-grass which is called ‘something, which looks like a hare’, a very beautiful as well as descriptive name.

For hundred of years the flora of Greenland has been used by the human population. Some of the euphoriant plants were dried out and then used as a medication for headaches. Other plants were used for the prevention of scurvy, a disease which afflicted many of the early European explorers of the polar regions. The human diet, mainly meat from hunted animals, was also supplemented with different types of berry. Some Greenlandic families still go out and pick buckets full of berries. There are about 52 bird species on the island. Some of these have adapted – as have the human population – to live permanently on the island rather than migrating to it. The Gyrfalcon’s plumage is proof of this adaptation, varying from the north to the south of the island. The bird is palest in those areas where the land is covered with snow and ice for most of the year. Another permanent resident, but only in southwest Greenland, is the sea eagle, a magnificent bird with a 2.5 meter wing span. Eagles pair are faithful to each other for life. They build their nests of twigs – and anything else which is available – in inaccessible places. Sea Eagles and Gyrfalcons, together with Snow Owls and Peregrine Falcons are the only indigenous birds of prey on Greenland and are all protected.

Greenland is home to the following mammals: Polar bear, Arctic Wolf, Arctic Fox, Ermine, Collared Lemming, Muskox, European Reindeer and the Arctic Hare. The curious Muskox are closer related to the sheep than to the cow. The Polar Bear is rarely seen on the west coast, but is regularly seen on the northern and north – eastern coasts. By contrast the Arctic Fox is found throughout Greenland. Foxes vary in colour: The blue fox (which does not change colour in winter) lives mostly by the coast, while the white fox – which is brown in summer and pure white in winter – lives inland. In the coastal waters of Greenland there are Fin, Minke and Humpback whales, Narwhals and Belugas (white whales). Blue Whales, Sperm Whales and Pilot Whales are also seen occasionally. The Inuit of Greenland prize the skin of the reindeer for its insulating properties, using it to make clothing and as groundsheets in tents.

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Itinerary

Day 1  Arrive at Keflavik International Airport, Iceland and make the short transfer to the small port of the same name to join the ship. In the early evening we leave Iceland and sail west towards the Denmark Strait.

Day 2  At sea, sailing north through the Denmark Strait. This is a good area for spotting the Blue Whales, the largest animal ever to have lived on Earth, who feed here during the summer months. It is believed that there are just 600 or so of these magnificent whales (out of a world population of around 6,000) in the North Atlantic. We may also see Orcas (Killer Whales), and are almost certain to encounter Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Gannets and rafts of Common Guillemots and Razorbills. We cross the Arctic Circle and continue north, perhaps seeing White-beaked Dolphins, Humpback Whales and Minke Whales, each species instantly recognised by the shape and size of its blow.

Day 3  In the morning we will spot our first icebergs appear as we approach the east coast of Greenland, passing the huge cliff faces of Kap Brewster. We intend to make our first landing in Scoresby Sund. Since the mouth of this, the world's longest fjord, remains ice-free almost all the winter, it is an excellent place for viewing seals. The area is also home to the only large seabird colonies on the eastern coast of Greenland. Serious hikers can cross the valley and climb on to the plateau of Kap Brewster from where they will have an excellent view over the fjord, Liverpool Land and the sea. On their way they may spot the white Gyr Falcon, Wheatears and Snow Buntings, and Arctic Hares. In the evening we sail further into the Scoresby Sund making our way along the ragged and glaciated Volquart Boons Coast, a good place for seeing Narwhal.

Day 4  We continue along Scoresby Sund, taking a Zodiac cruise along the glacier front in Vikingebugt, a bay surrounded by basaltic mountains. Later we land on Danmark Ø where there are the remains of an Inuit settlement abandoned around 200 years ago. The circular ‘tent rings’ of stones indicate the summer houses, while the winter houses can be seen closer to a small cape. The sites are excellently preserved, allowing entrances and even bear-proof meat caches to be identified. There are also grave sites.

Day 5  We go ashore at Cape Hofmann Halvø, a reliable spot for viewing Musk Oxen. We may also spot Rock Ptarmigans and at sea Great Northern Divers. The landscape here is particularly beautiful, especially during autumn when the Dwarf Willow and Dwarf Birch change colour. Arctic Blueberry and Crowberry add their own colourful touch - the berries are tasty too! Later, during a Zodiac cruise along the 3 km wide face of the Eielson Glacier, we will come close to huge icebergs and may also see Ringed Seals, as well as distant views of Musk Oxen on shore. In the evening we sail through the fjord towards Scoresby Land, hoping to see Narwhal again and enjoying the contrast between the warm autumnal colours of the vegetation on shore, backed by huge dark mountains, and the cold blue of the icebergs.

Day 6  On our way to Sydkap in Scoresby Land in the morning, we encounter huge icebergs, some over 100 m high and more than a kilometre in length. Most of the bergs are grounded as the fjord is only about 400 m deep here. We land near Sydkap to view the remains of the Thule culture winter houses. As many as 20 people lived in these tiny houses, hunting Greenland Whales and using their vertebrae to build the houses. We may also land at Gurreholm on Jameson Land. The landscape here is gently undulating, but the climate is harsh - sometimes snow lies throughout the summer - but some animals - Musk Oxen and Collared Lemmings - survive on the meagre vegetation. The lemmings are preyed upon by Long-tailed Skua, Snowy Owl and Arctic Fox.

Day 7  We land in Illoqqortoormiut, the biggest settlement near Scoresby Sund with about 500 inhabitants. At the post office you can buy stamps for your postcards, or just wander around to see the sledge dogs and the drying skins of seals, Musk Ox and Polar Bear. After lunch we will sail south, passing the amazing landscape of the Blosseville Coast where groups of Harp Seals can be spotted among the ice floes.

Day 8  We continue along the Blosseville Coast with wonderful views of snow covered peaks - these are the highest mountains of Greenland, some of them reaching over 3000m. At the mouth of Nansen Fjord we spot Gunnbjørns Fjeld, at 3700m: it is both the highest peak in Greenland and also the highest mountain north of the Arctic Circle. Next we sail into Mikis Fjord, bounded by steep cliffs. The fjord is a good place to spot Narwhal, Polar Bear, Ringed Seals and Harp Seals. At Södalen at the head of Mikis Fjord we land in a marshy delta. There are good populations of both Common and Arctic Redpolls, as well as a chance of seeing flocks of Barnacle Geese and Pink-footed Geese.'

Day 9  In the morning, we head south for Kangerlussuaq fjord where glaciers reach the sea creating a fabulous landscape of glacier fronts, icebergs and cliffs. On shore there are the remains of dwellings of Thule culture people. The fjord is also a good place to see Polar Bears and Ivory Gulls. We conclude the day with a Zodiac trip to Skaergårdshalvø, a popular summer hunting ground for the people of Ammassalik. Most years a number of families arrive here in early summer and stay until the end of the hunting season and we might be able to meet them. In the afternoon we will sail south-east towards the Denmark Strait.

Day 10  The whole day at sea offers excellent opportunities to see large whales and seabird migration and, at night the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights).

Day 11  Arrive and Keflavik, and transfer for the airport for the flight home.