ECUADOR: THE AMAZON
When Spanish explorer Francisco de Orellana set from Quito in 1541, he headed in the direction of the Napo River-Ecuador's major tributary that feeds the Amazon mainstream. In search of the golden treasure of El Dorado, he sailed the 700 miles of the Napo (and another 2,000 miles on the Amazon) until he reached the Atlantic Ocean at present-day Brazil. His expedition-the first reported river descent from the Andes to the Atlantic by a European-took 16 months. Today we explore this unique rain forest area on shorter and more comfortable air, land and water excursions. The Oriente extends from the eastern Andes mountain range to the border with Peru. In addition to the characteristically lush tropical jungle flora which visitors have come to enjoy, the region supports lumber, agriculture, gold mining, and oil industries. Some of the area is accessible from Quito by road and air service, other parts can best be reached by dugout canoe. When traveling down the river from Coca. you will see the world of Amazonia on foot and by canoe, best if accompanied by a naturalist-guide.
Ecuador, land of the descendants of the Incas and the Quitu-Caras, is also the land of the Shuaras, Cofanes, Huaoranis, Quijos, Seonas and Secoyas, some of the tribes that still inhabit the region of El Oriente, as the Upper Amazon Basin is called. Visits to the Indian villages, overnights in jungle lodges, walks through the primeval rain forest in search of brilliant toucans and parrots, traveling by dugout canoe down hidden tributaries, and cruising the a 50-passenger floating hotel-are all part of the adventure which is Amazonia.Hop into an airplane at Quito's Mariscal Sucre Airport and in just 25 minutes of flying time you will be in Ecuador's Amazon. So startling is the contrast, you will think that you have landed in another country ... or even another planet! Layers of exotic vegetation block the sky. Brown waters sweep beneath the gargantuan foliage. Hundreds of species of exotic birds and equally brilliant butterflies provide constant bursts of color. You have just landed in a tropical rain forest which is one of the richest and most complex ecosystems in the world. Orchids and bromeliads light up the dense green jungle canopy. Rest assured, your adventure in the Ecuadorian Amazon will be an ecological adventure never to be soon forgotten.
One trip includes the Limoncocha Lagoon (with an overnight at the lodge) where more than 400 species of birds have been sighted, and where visitors go alligator "hunting" (with flashlights) at night; Pompeya Island with its museum, church and village, and the Taracoa jungle area of giant kapok trees and other rain forest life. Longer trips include overnight in Panacocha, by Piranha Lake, where there is a jungle cam used as a base for fishing, birdwatching, canoeing and swimming.
There is another interesting jungle routing in central Oriente which combines overland travel from Quito-along the Pan American Highway to Ambatothen cutting east on a secondary road to Banos, a highland retreat at the foot of Mt. Tungurahua, and gateway to the Upper Amazon region. The route then follows the Pastaza River to Puyo, Tena, and the frontier Napo River port of Misahualli. By dugout canoe travelers go for an overnight or two, on Anaconda Island, with jungle hikes and canoe rides, as well as visits to Yumbo native villages. Visitors will be taken through nearby jungle trails and short hikes. One program even includes a visit to the local witch doctor. Visiting this jungle region can be as comfortable or rugged a trip as a traveler desires, but a common experience is the adventure of being in Amazonia.Another, newer route to Amazon adventure opens the lands in the southern Ecuadorian Amazon region. You will travel from Cuenca to Macas, on the Upano River, and journey through the mountains of the Cutucu, to the region occupied by the proud Shuar Amazonian Indians. Although now a peaceful people, they will share with you their secrets for shrinking heads; a popular tribal custom in the not so ancient past.
Amazonia is a unique world of rivers, cutting through dense foliage that grows to towering heights at three distinct levels and complete with brilliant outcroppings of orchids and bromeliads. It is the guide who will often have to help you distinguish between plant and animal. There are countless numbers of insects, birds and butterflies. Yet, unlike of other immense jungles on other continents, there are few large animals. Puma and-jaguar live here, but they are hard to find. You will perhaps see an armadillo or anteater, but will certainly find a world of animals that have adapted to tree living, such as the sloth and the tree porcupine. No one can miss the red, howler monkey whose screams can be heard for distances of over a mile.Birds are the richest group of Amazon vertebrates. There are approximately 1,000 species in a variety of forest habitats, lagoons and in the open. You will be able to identify hummingbirds, toucans, macaws and tanagers on land; darters, herons and gulls on water. A wide variety of mammals also share this jungle home: armadillos, honey bears, sloths, tapirs, peccaries, jaguars, monkeys, manatees and 60 varieties of bats. More than 250 species of amphibians and reptiles live there. The lagoons of the Napo and Aguarico River basins are home for two colonies of caymans which grow to over 13 feet in length. There is one interesting jungle routing in Central Oriente, from Quito to the upper Napo River, the Port of Misahualli. By dugout canoe travelers go for an overnight or two, on the rivers margins in comfortable hotels, with jungle hikes and canoe rides as well as visits to Quechua native villages. There is also the Jatun Sacha Scientific Station, where you can get to know details of the natural history.
Flying from Quito into the northern Amazon area, you will undoubtedly land at Lago Agrio, the departure point for the Napo River area as well as the Aguarico River. You may also fly into Coca which is right on the Napo River. Along the length of the Napo River you will find that natives and settlers have established communities, interspersed occasionally with small hotels and lodges. The Aguarico River area boasts a floating hotel where you may experience the Amazon without completely forsaking the creature comforts of civilization. The area also has some new lodges, and highly qualified naturalist guides are available for briefings. The Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, in the northeast corner of Ecuador's Amazon basin, has black water lakes and streams shelter some of the most unusual flora and fauna in South America.
While staying at one of the new lodges, within and on the perimeter of the park, you will have a chance to see dolphins, manatees, caimans, anacondas, tapirs, armadillos, monkeys, macaws, herons, parrots and toucans. Your guide will also be able to take you to the area of the park inhabited by the Siona Indian community.The largest national park in Ecuador, Yasuni National Park, over one million square acres, is the home of the Huaorani Indian tribe. They inhabit the Tiputini, Yasuni, Cononaco and Nushiño River basins as well as the shores of the lush lagoons and navigable streams. This biosphere reserve is Ecuador's most bio‑diverse area. A community of Quichua Indians lives in the beautiful lagoon landscape of the Limoncocha Biological Reserve. Canoe trips will let you observe the fauna which includes 347 species of birds. Walks through the jungle paths will allow you to study the vegetation.