Fez - | - Marrakech - | - Casablanca - | - Rabat - | - Meknes - | - Tangier - | - Tetuan

FEZ, the holy city of the Cherifian Kingdom, the most imperial of all imperial cities of Morocco. The origins of the city stretch back to the era of the first dynasty of Morocco. Moulay Idriss ( descendant of the prophet MOHAMMED ) built FEZ and made it his capital . After his death his son Idriss II continued the construction of the city over the site of the actual « Cité des Andalous ». Andalusian Arabs came afterwards to live in the city, they founded « La cité des Karaouines », they brought to the city, the Arab know-how, acquired in Andalusia, and confided to the city its spiritual features. Considered as a universal patrimony, FEZ is ranked nowadays among the list of spiritual and historic cities of the world . The visitor to FEZ experiences the atmosphere of the middle ages of the Islamic civilisation .

The mosque of Fez is big, and when you walk around the old city, you get a feeling that it's never ending. Every now and then, you discover a port to a mosque, just to realise that it's the same mosque over and over again. The most vital parts of the old city are making up a circle around the mosque, called Kairaouine. This is based upon old Muslim patterns where the jama',<Picture> the main mosque is the centre of town. And with these patterns, all the cleanest forms of commercial activity are situated in the nearest vicinity, while unclean activities are put as far away as possible. But in Fez you find the dyers, just some 50 metres away from the mosque. This was a surprise to me, as dyeing is counted among the least clean activities of all. The dyers' plant is a tourist attraction, much because it is colourful, and make great motives. The plant consists of hundreds of basins filled with all colours, and the mint sprig given to you at the entrance is to be held between the stench coming up from it, and your nose. But just like most other major Moroccan cities, Fez is a place to get lost (in the evening this can be literal). And the city do keep enough attractions to stroll around aimlessly for several days. What makes its architecture great, are the gates all over. They are big, well kept and of high quality handicraft.<Picture> Apart from that, the houses of Fez aren't that splendid, but inside the city, remember that it is the totality that makes Fez one of the most outstanding examples of medieval cities in the Arab world.

The Mellah (Jewish quarter) - It is considered to be the largest in Morocco. Today while many Jews have left Fez for Casablanca, Muslims now live in the overcrowded Mellah. The buildings include charming old houses with elaborately carved wooden balconies and Neo-classical colonnades, and a number of residential blocks with multi-colored façades.

The Medina - This is the largest Medina in Morocco. Due to its immense size , in 1976, it was subdivided into some twenty smaller Medinas. UNESCO declared the Medina of Fez one of the world’s cultural treasures.

Medersa Bou Inania - It was the largest Medersa (school) in Fez and one of the most costly. The splendid stucco work, the cedarwood panelling (now faded), the bronze, marble and onyx decorations, and the windows with muqarna are all classic Merinid architectural features.

Nejjarine Square - The square, with its splendid and unusual fountain, takes its name from the Souk Nejjarine (Carpenter’s Souk), which is situated behind a wooden door in a narrow street below the square.

Attarine Medersa - This is by far the most beautiful Medersa (school) in Fez. It was built between 1323 and 1325 and it is a beautiful crafted work of art. Especially notable are the bronze door, the inner courtyard with fine marble and alabaster pillars, the cedarwood canopy and the white marble font decorated with a rosette and Zellige.

The Palaces of Fez El Bali - Dozens of palaces, either in a perfectly preserved condition or undergoing restoration work, are hidden away in the narrow streets and obscure dead-end streets of Fez. Their entrance have the typical Moroccan carving and studded wooden doors, usually with two brass knockers.

The tanneries - The colourful tanner’s quarter, spreads out along the banks of the Oued Fez. The view from the rooftops is a memorable one : clusters of stone vats filled with red, yellow and brown dyes, and skins hanging everywhere, drying in the sun. Marrakech Seeking the best place to settle down, the Almoravides, the famous tribe from the Moroccan Sahara selected a land near the Nfis river to build a city they named Marrakesh. It was the capital under the reign of the Almoravides and Almohades dynasties. Since, it has expanded and developed to become a big and influent city of the whole region politically, culturally and spiritually. Marrakesh is a fascinating city which attracts many visitors. It was a city which held the spirit of the big and mysterious South. Every corner, every narrow street has a story to tell. Nowadays Marrakesh is a big tourist centre, which benefits from an important tourism infrastructure in hotels and restaurants with the biggest Congress Palace in Africa. Thanks to its atmosphere and the hospitality of its inhabitants, Marrakesh attracts every year congressists and visitors from all parts of the world.

Marrakech might be the most famous Moroccan city, and the air seems full of stories, true or not true, even in modern times. Marrakech is primarily the world famous square, Jema l-Fna, which vibrates from life all day through. On the one side of it the suq starts, which really lets you go back into something resembling the Middle Ages. It might not contain more than most suqs in Morocco, but it is so much larger. And its all in a colour somewhere between red and pink. At night Jema l-Fna turns into a grand fun fair, where stories are told, fire swallowed, poisonous snakes played with. And cameras and wallets stolen. So after having fought with aggressive hustlers inside the suq all day, you can easily end up losing all you brought out into the night. Remember that when night falls, crime gets easier. So, leave your things in the hotel. Marrakech' reputation as a pot of hustlers is not undeserved, but few things happen here that can't be handled. If you show respect, and keep your things close to your body, and become alert when you're in a crowd. Marrakech' old quarters has many poor people, that have little chance to find regular work. What is central to understanding Marrakech' position, is that it never has been Arabic, always Berber. While Arabs and Berbers mingle in most parts of Morocco, Marrakech remains a bastion of Berber culture. It was its own centre in the struggle against the French earlier this century, and could have become a capital in a country away from Morocco if history had wanted it differently. Anyway, it's the place that from where Europeans have derived 'Morocco'.

Marrakech is situated close to the Atlas mountains, and on most days you can see blue mountains covered with snow over the rooftops. Marrakech has been a resort for many years, and comes with all the luxury those being able to pay for it, can afford. The attractions have not always been all moral. The setting of Marrakech is splendid, the city exceptionally beautiful, and the liveliness almost never ending. The city offers most activities, swimming in the hotel, and excursions to the mountains. But what is often forgotten in short presentations, just 40 years ago, as much as every three woman was a prostitute, either full time or once in a while. And child prostitution was offered in the middle of the street, in full daylight, outside popular restaurants, from the receptionist in the hotel, from poor mothers. A little bit is apparently left of this, but Marrakech is no worse than most other North African city. There are many sights of Marrakech. The centre square (upper photo), Jema l-Fna is already mentioned. The 850 year old Koutoubia minaret is just some hundred metres west from the Jema l-Fna, and the foremost landmark of the city. The beautiful, large mosque and madrasa of Ben Yussef inside the large suq, that begins at the northern side of Jema l-Fna, can be entered. For deeper understanding of Moroccan architecture, the Almoravid koubba, 20- 30 metres south of the mosque of Ben Yussef, offer several of the oldest examples of the artifacts of the Moroccan architectural style: decorative patterns, windows, and the structure of the dome itself.

Menara - The magnificent Menara gardens which cover an area of 250 acres, are planted with olive trees. The large central lake, dating from the 12th century, is fed by a network of irrigation channels. At the water’s edge, a small Saadian pavilion was used for the sultan’s romantic pleasures.

The Koutoubia Mosque - One of the best examples of Moorish art, combining apparent simplicity with superb craftsmanship and restrained luxury. Its minaret, 252 feet high is certainly one of the most impressive sights in Marrakesh.

The Saadians Tombs - During the 16th century, several mausoleums were built to accommodate the tombs of thirteen Saadian rulers. With its delicate decoration and pure architectural lines, the necropolis is an outstandingly beautiful feature of architecture.

The Bahia Palace - This magnificent palace, built among 2 acres of lush and exotic gardens is a combination of ancient culture and luxury.The inner courtyards are surrounded by many luxurious rooms of the palace.

Dar Si Said Museum - Here you can find examples of the vast array of southern Moroccan crafts ranging from furniture and carpets, to weapons and pottery (optional).

The Ben Youssef Medersa - This school has developed into the largest Koranic university in Morocco. Its architecture and the subtle use of decoration, achieved through a balanced combination of stucco and mosaic, marble and cedarwood, were influenced by the styles of Moorish Spain.

The Majorelle gardens - These delightful gardens, planted with bougainvillaea, coconut palms and banana trees, bamboo and palms trees were laid out in the 1920’s by the French artist Jacques Majorelle. They belong today to YVES SAINT LAURENT the French artist. 

Grand Tour of the walls - The walls -ramparts- of Marrakesh extend over 6 miles and form an impressive wall of clay and chalk. The walls, between 26 and 32 feet high, incorporate ten monumental gates in Spanish-Moroccan style.

The Palm Groves - A narrow road suitable for cars and horse-drawn carriages begins a 14 mile tour of the palm groves, which have 150.000 palm trees and extends over an area of some 30.000 acres. 

Djemaa El Fna Square - One of the main attractions of Marrakesh. This traditional meeting place for peasants and merchants has become the heart of Marrakesh. In the morning, this vast square, bordered by shops and workshops, is crowded with fruit and spice sellers, basket sellers, ironmongers and barbers. In the afternoon and in the evening hours the musicians, story-tellers, snake charmers and entertainers with performing monkeys fill this square turning it into a live theater. Casablanca

If the Hollywood image of 'Casablanca' is important to you, be careful about visiting Casablanca. No other city in Morocco is further away from the romantic Orientalism presented in the classical film of 1942. Actually the film has never been correct about the image presented of the city that gave the film its name. The Orient is found all over Morocco, Casablanca is a modern city, and beautiful in its own respect. The centre of Casablanca is fairly impressive. It's squeaky modern, with big, lively boulevards, high, white, well-kept buildings. And it's clean and efficient. People visiting Casablanca as their first city, could easily end up hating this place: There are few things here confirming the newcomers conception on the Orient. But for people having visited other parts of Morocco first, Casablanca is good! The city is modern in a Moroccan way, and an excellent example of Moroccans capacity of taking charge of the future of their country. But as soon as you step out of the impressive centre of town, dark clouds cover the realities of people here. Extreme poverty and prostitution only to be matched by Tangier is what you'll find without even looking for it. No other place in the country displays bigger differences between the haves and the have-nots. If anything in Casablanca should fit the Casablanca of Bergman and Bogart, it should be the old city. It's small, consisting mainly of smaller houses, which all seem to be from this century, and the alleyways dominating in other old cities, are rarely found here. There is a good market here, but look around before you buy, shop keepers here know their skills. Some thousand people live here, and in one or two spots, true beauty occurs.

Rabat is by some travellers rated among the best of Moroccan cities. But the majority of the city is just as Casablanca not very Moroccan. And it's far smaller. Town centre is French in style, and not very lively. If capitals are marked by people rushing, Rabat is nothing like a capital. When in Rabat there are certain things to do. You could get a change from Moroccan cuisine, as there are a handful of good international restaurants,- chinese, vietnamese, italian, and good eating is easy to find all over. You could rush through the old city, which will disappoint you, as it's only giving shelter for the people who can't find space in the modern parts of Rabat. The result is that Rabat's old city is marked by little else but poverty, and has no exotic market areas. The Muhammad V mausoleum is beautiful, tranquil, with intricate masonry, and a nice place to sit down for a minute or two. If you visit Rabat in summer time, as I did, you'll appreciate all small rests there are. Reaching the beaches of Rabat also proves rewarding, as they are full of easygoing Moroccans, treating you with all possible respect and curiosity. The old fortress, or ribat, is well-kapt, and has a small population. Its position looking over both the Atlantic, and the city of Rabat on one side and Sale on the other, is a startling addition to the village-like charm. Except from the monuments, and some museums, I got to admit that Rabat is not high on my list of preferred Moroccan cities. Nice, but far from exiting.

Meknes has been called the Versailles of Morocco, but the grand scheme for a royal palace was never completed. Today the city is the centre of a productive area, producing olives, wine, cereal crops and citrus. The old city is not among the finest in Morocco, but the royal palace is filling a considerable part of it. The palace was the made under Sultan Moulay Ismail, reigning for 55 years around 1700. He was a true tyrant, and one believes that he had some 30,000 people killed, but the figures are far higher if you count the ones killed in his battles he conducted. His motto was: "My subjects are like rats in a basket, and if I don't shake the basket, they will gnaw their way out." Despite Ismail's great interest in building, he never succeeded in making Meknes the great imperial city he planned it to be. Meknes has for always been stamped by its feeling of emptiness. Not even the newer French city, situated on the other side of the gorge that divides the city in two halves, managed to change this.

Tangier is the main port of the ferries coming from Europe, and almost no other place in Morocco holds more discos than Tangier. But they are totally different from the European ones. You should enter these for the sake of the music, but stay away if you're going for company. Inside you find small orchestras playing classical Arabic music, and if you like this kind of music, it's some of the performers here are first class. The music they play is rarely heard outside North Africa. It sounds like a mixture of symphonic music and Indian string music, and is based on melody lines that are built up in a process resembling what Westerners call jamming, until a crescendo is reached. The result is that the piece of music you heard will never return, unless somebody recorded it. The next time the same melody line is used, the result can be very different. The women you meet at the discos, are prostitutes. All of them, it seems. And they don't only stick to discos and night clubs, you get approached by them even in normal restaurants, restaurants of good reputation. What surprises you, is their bluntness, and the acceptance of ordinary Moroccans around. This is all part of a long tradition, where foreign travellers have come to Tangier to stay, with the promiscuity in mind. Even today there are a lot of very young prostitutes, as well as a lot of homosexual prostitution. But still Tangier is a very nice city, close to the sea, a long beach, an exotic old city. But sadly, the hustlers here are so professional that they're organised (actually true!). The moment you come out of the quay area, they run for you. One wants to show the city, -"for free". Another knows about a very good hotel, and he can get you in at a special price. And unlike hustlers in any other place in Morocco, there is nothing you can do to get rid of them. But do remember, many of them are good people, as long as you don't trust them too much. So choose one of them, bargain a price (1$/hour is maximum), and enjoy. If an experience like this doesn't frighten you, Morocco will be yours. Otherwise, you should choose another port for entering Morocco, and enter with air plane.

The Grand Socco - A huge permanent market where merchants and peasant women sell locally produced fruits, vegetables and poultry. Its location and the various economic activities make the Grand Socco Square, the busiest public one in Tangier.

The Petit Socco - A small square bordered by cafés and old residences. It leads into the « Rue de la Marine », the Medina’s busiest street. A platform situated to the east of the Medina offers a splendid view of the port and across the bay of Tangier.

The American Legation - This building was the United States government’s first overseas acquisition, Morocco being the first country to recognize US sovereignty in 1776. It is also the only historic monument that the United States has possessed since it was founded.

Dar El Makhzen - Today, this place built during the reign of Sultan Moulay Ismaïl in the 17th century, houses Tangier’s Museum of Moroccan Arts. Rooms contain exhibits of carpets, jewellery, silks and ceramics...

Cape Spartel - The round-trip from Tangier to Cape Spartel, on the west part of the city can be done in a day. The most convenient route is the road that turns from modern Tangier across the city’s residential district, known as the Mountain Jebel El Kebir. In the 17th century, this wooded hill provided cover for the Moors in their battles against the Portuguese and the English.

Grottoes of Hercules - In classical mythology, Hercules rested in these caves after completing his labours. Legend has it that it was Hercules himself who created the Straits of Gibraltar by pushing aside the mountains to form Jebel Tarik (Gibraltar) on the north side and Jebel Moussa on the south, in Africa.

The Forbes Museum - Housed in the former residence of the American millionaire Malcom Forbes. Starting in 1978, Forbes built up a collection of 115,000 military miniatures representing the greatest battles as well as the Battle of Waterloo (1815) or the Battle of the Three Kings (1578), which he donated to the city before his death.

Tetuan holds a reputation of being the worst city in Morocco, with tricksters to be found everywhere, in the shape of hustlers and aggressive guides. This is also a place where mugging and physical crime is so much a possibility that you should consider staying away. And if you have your first meeting with the Arabic countries in this spot, your impression of travelling in this part of the World could be wrecked forever. If you have the basic knowledge on how to deal with the troublesome minority of Moroccan men, you could make a try in Tetuan. The city is beautifully situated in a hillside with a view over the Mediterranean, that is separated from by the city with some kilometres wide farmland. It's one of the whitest cities of Morocco, and both the old city and the modern one are nicely arranged, with a nice mix of Moroccan and Spanish architecture. But then again, the people destroy what this city could have been.